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RATROD 383 385 CHEVY STROKER FIRST START UP cam break in

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Since 1978 I've been building old cars and V8 engines.I always have several laying around that I'm building.It takes time,I find peices here and there and assemble them. The last several years I've slowly been building 4 engines.A 454(done n sold),a retro roller 307,a 385 and the 350 thats in this 48'Chevy. I sell some,trade some,use some,etc. It's one of my hobbies. This one is now done,,it's a "385 Stroker". It's a Small Block Chevy engine(sbc). The newly completed assembled engine must be started and rev'd up and held there to properly break in the camshaft and lifters(this is part of Old School flat tappet engines). If you don't do this the cam and lifters will experience premature failures. I run all new engines at 2000rpm to 2500rpm. I do this for 20 to 30 minutes.This particular engine block is stamped 1969 Impala 350. The heads are late 1969 #186 casting numbers,(desirable for increased Horse Power). They match the block as far as date,they're known as "double humps" or "375 horse heads". They'll make quite a bit more horsepower than that if properly worked.This engine should make 385 to 400 horse power. The valves are new stainless 2.02's/1.60's.The heads are seriously ported and have a history to them,,these heads have circulated around a local dragstrip for decades. When I bought them,I redid everything. The cylinder bores were bored over .40 thousandths. Then I added a 400 crankshaft to this 350 motor to "Stroke" it. This combination results in longer piston travel and makes the engine bigger internally and increases it's breathing characteristics (hence the benefit of the ported heads). The resulting displacement is 385 cubic inches. This will probably end up in my '85 chopped top swb S-10. The reason being this is a street type, low rpm engine.I have a little over $2000.oo in the whole thing because I wait on good deals and do the work myself,except the spin balancing of the reciprocating assembly.I'll post more vids as I can.Thanks for looking.

Channel: Autos & Vehicles
Uploaded: December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm
Author: danielwetpaint

Length: 02:05
Rating: 4.40
Views: 7046

Tags: 1948  billy  block  Box  chevy  Cigar  drag  dragster  Gauges  hotrod  old  rat  rock  rod  school  sled  small  stylemaster  tudor  

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andjoey5000 (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
wut size cam,compression,wut size carb? jw because i have a 385 also it has a weiand highrise dualquad setup, alluminum 202 ported and polished heads, a comp custom ground flat tap mechanical 598/600 lift cam,12.5:1compression keith black domed pistons,4340 crank and rods both Eagle bluprinted and balanced, msd 6al 9.5mm wires, i hoping for 500-550 horsepower wut do u think ? and by the way your motor sounds really good
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
Oh well,,I traded around and got ANOTHER S10 !! LOL. It's an '86 model,,so I guess we're back on for sticking this in an S10.I'll use a Turbo 350 because it's so cheap and reliable.
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
Not now,,I sold the S-10 stuff.This engine is now headless.I bought some Aluminum ones that I'm currently porting.I'll make a vid of that later.
killerbe1 (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
i love the first start!! that thing sounds mean. is this going into an s10?
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
You're right I do. I run a bunch when it's not in a vehicle pulling a load,otherwise I set the timing while driving up our mountain. On my '48 I have a rod (w fulcrum joints)that goes through the firewall and connects to the distributor and ends up under the dash (in my reach while driving). I can set the timing while under a load and to whatever fuel is in the car.Good ear Bro - .
turbolite81 (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
correct me if im wrong but it sounds like you might have a little to much advance on the distributor
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
I don't usually run bigger than a 230 duration @ .50.More than that and the brakes get soft.
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
I keep having dreams about her ,,we play leap frog for hours in a sunny meadow.
danielwetpaint (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
If memory serves me,the crankshaft is a scat 9000. I think it was right around $240.oo. I bought a new 400 flexplate and balancer.I looked at all the receipts needed to byuild this and they total about $2030.oo.I did everything myself except the balancing.The machine work on the block and balancing was right at $500.oo.You can throw all the money you want to at an engine.I don't beat on 'em too hard after I build them, so even a "cheapy" lasts me years and a few times even a decade.
madtownmadman (December 31, 1969 at 6:59 pm)
I'm curious about the reciprocating assembly that you're using. I know that the less expensive stroker cranks are externally balanced. Do you have one of those particular cranks? I have a '72 four bolt block thats all machined and clearanced for a stroker crank. I would like to use an internally balanced assembly, for the higher quality, and was wondering if you knew of any sources that aren't too expensive.

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